Northeast Mountain Guiding

Puncak Jaya, sometimes called Mount Carstensz or the Carstensz Pyramid, is the highest mountain on the island of New Guinea , on the Australia-New Guinea continent and in Oceania . It is the highest point between the Himalaya and the Andes and the highest island peak in the world. The peak is located in what is variously called the Sudirman Range or the Dugunduguoo, in the western central highlands of Papua, the Indonesian western half of the island, and is the highest peak in the country.

Puncak Jaya was originally called ‘Carstensz Pyramid’, after Dutch explorer Jan Carstensz first sighted the glaciers on the peak of the mountain on a rare clear day in 1623 (Carstensz was ridiculed in Europe when he said he had seen snow near the equator). This name is still used among mountaineers. Although the snowfield of Puncak Jaya was reached as early as 1909 by a Dutch explorer, Hendrik A. Lorentz, the peak was not climbed until 1962, by an expedition led by the Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer (of Seven Years in Tibet fame) with three friends, Temple , Kippax and Huizenga.

The highest peak in Oceania and one of the most exotic and challenging SEVEN SUMMITS; The Carstensz Pyramid 4,884 meters at Irian Jaya, Indonesia. You’ll have the opportunity to spend time in the central highland area visiting the famous Dani people, who still live very primitively.  You’ll have time to enjoy their amazing cultures and discover the beauty and wonders of Papua Island .

Carstensz Pyramid is a large limestone, we climb the mountain via its north face which joins the summit ridge before proceeding to the summit. Most of the climb is scrambling, but there are technical sections up to 5.8 in difficulty. We will fix ropes on much of the route to gain the summit ridge, which will also direct us on the descent. The summit ridge is knife-edged ridge with some really interesting climbing. You'll need to have some rock climbing experience prior to coming to Carstensz Pyramid.

Further regarding the climb, there are 2 parts of the climb, first we’ll climb up through the north face of Carstensz Wall via the normal route where we’ll climb fixed ropes for the ascent as well as the descent. The climb up the north wall of CP is about 500 meters where jummaring is required. Free climbing is not recommended in terms of safety. Once we are moving onward on the summit ridge, we will cross the huge gap on a tyrolean to speed up the ascent to the summit of Carstensz Pyramid (4,884 M).

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