Northeast Mountain Guiding

Climbing at El Potrero Chico in Mexico has been getting very popular in the last couple of years. There are hundreds of established sport-climbing routes with a range of difficulty from 5.8 to 5.13, with most of the routes at 5.10 and 5.11. Climbers from Austin started developing routes beginning in the 90's, and now there are over 500 routes.

Come and experience  El Potrero Chico, with its northern Mexican culture, peaceful location and friendly town!

El Potrero is:

• A unique geological formation of limestone cliffs, some 2000 ft. high.
• Part of the Sierra Madre Oriental.
• An area that was once under a sea, and if you take time to notice you can    find fossils in the rock.
• A park that is located 3 km to the west of Hidalgo. The climbing area is  mostly located at the entrance to the park, the limestone cliffs form the       outer perimeter, and the interior is an undeveloped mountainous wildlife    area.
• One of the top 10 mountains to sport-climb in the world.

All of the following routes are classics in El Potrero Chico. They represent some of the finest rock climbing in Mexico.

Intro to Intermediate Climbs

                                          Estrellita 5.9+ 1100 ft.                                         

 This is a great route that begins with two vertical pitches of 5.9 climbing to a comfortable ledge, followed by two short wandering pitches (5.8) that lead to a 3rd class ledge. Two more ramp pitches bring you to the base of a delicate 5.10a pitch that leads you to the base of a 400 ft. dihedral. You follow this dihedral to the summit for four more pitches of 5.8-5.9 with some 5.10 moves. Super alpine like summit!

This is a fun day out on your first long multi-pitch climb, great views, nice belay ledges, and a palm tree on top! Some of the finest 5.9 rock climbing in Mexico.   

Los Aguja (The  Spires)

Aguja Celo Rey 5.10 220 ft.

This is the most classic route in the Potrero. It follows the weakness that the first ascensionest took to the top of the west spire in the 1960's. You'll see a lot of the old home made iron pitons they left behind.

The first pitch has beautiful face climbing and an amazing window half way up to the notch. Pitch 2 climbs the narrower of the two spires. Amazing exposure and graceful moves bring you the tiny, yet exhilarating summit.

Satori 5.9+ 700 ft.   

This is an excellent route that ascends the grey North face of Cerro San Miguel. With a little less than a one mile aproach this climb seems more "out there" than some of the other objectives in El Potrero. The book will give this route a rating of 5.10 but those in know will tell you that it is a 5.9 with one 5.10 crux on bullet hard limestone. Satori offers varied climbing in a semi-remote setting with a spectacular razor ridge summit.

Intermediate Climbs

Treasures of the Sierra Madre 5.10b 700 ft. 

This is a great route for the moderate climber looking to soak up the sun. This route boosts sustained pitches that climb a variety of pockets, cracks and edges on beautiful white lime stone.  

You begin by climbing an 80 ft. pillar that takes you to the steep head wall, follow the natural weakness of cracks and huecos for the next 500 ft. One final lower angle pitch places you on top of one of the Potrero's finest summits.

Yankee Clipper 5.12c or 5.10 A1

Climbing 1400 ft. through some of the coolest features on the big wall this moderate has it all. The grade may scare some but a couple points of aid at the top of the route should not deter you from the real summit. Join us this winter for a one or two day ascent of this El Potrero Chico classic.

Intermediate to Advanced Climbs

Time Wave Zero 5.12- or 5.10+ A1 2100+ ft.

(1 or 2 day ascents)

This 23 pitch long bolted monster offers the avid climber every degree of climbing from slabs to overhangs, cracks to jug hauls. You can enjoy this climb as a one or two day adventure. There is an ample bivy ledge at the base of the upper section which is the crux. As a two day climb this is a great wall intro to: sleeping, cooking, and personal hygiene while tied in. As a one day climb it is great practice for speed climbing.

Space Boys 5.10d 1100 ft 

This is a excellent route for any intermediate 5.10 climber. All of the cruxes are short on this long climb. Eleven pitches of sustained 5.9 and 5.10 climbing takes you up the middle of the big wall and brings you to a spire summit with a great 360 degree view. This route has history because it was the one of the first long routes that was bolted in El Potrero Chico. It was established over the course of 52 weekends!

Advanced Climbs

Sendero Diablo 5.11c 600 ft. 

This is a great 5.11 route for a sport climber who has never left the ground.  All five pitches offer a diverse selection of limestone features for a 5.11, 5.12, or 5.13 climber to enjoy. The summit view from atop the Out Rage wall is phenominal. From the top there are three overhanging rappells to the ground. This is a great introduction to the Out Rage wall.

Call or email for a complete airport pick-ups, area accomodations, gear list, directions, pricing, detailed itineraries or any further information.

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Climbing Grade Comparison Chart

Climbing Dictionary

Rock climbing involves risk of serious injury and/or death!

Make sure you prepare yourself and that you are in shape for the trip you sign up for or plan.

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